Sunday, January 19, 2014

Lingerie Drafting

I've been drafting some new patterns for myself the last few weeks. As mentioned in the last post I had drafted and made up a few pairs of undies. I feel like they fit really well. I'm really excited as this is the first set of patterns I drafted that was made for knits and close fitting apparel. I feel like this will help open up many possibilities for me. I'm hoping to develop a few more patterns for myself over the coming months including a lower cut, thong, and boy short.
Fabric is a cotton/spandex jersey from Spandex House and elastic was bought on Etsy.

My next project I wanted to tackle was a bralette for my brother's girlfriend. I had made her some Adventure Time undies using the Amerson pattern from Madalynne's blog. I was going to follow up with Beamo fabric using Spoonflower's new Modern Jersey, but it wasn't ready by the time I needed. Instead I used a some left overs from my tests with Modern Jersey. You can find the design here
Drafting the bralette

My new bralette pattern!

 I picked up a copy of Patternmaking for Fashion Design a few weeks ago, and while I'm not using it directly to make slopers, it is helpful in understanding some of the basics for contour patternmaking (close fitting garments). I've referenced a few different places for drafting a sloper, but the sloper for this pattern is based on Madalynne's instructions. I'm pretty happy with the final pattern, though my sewing skills and persistence to match thread could be better. Thankfully there aren't any photos of the back. I will definitely will be remaking the bralette as I think its adorable, but with some serious improvements to the back. I lined the bralette with some soft nylon power mesh, which I will definitely keep doing as it helps with recovery.
In the end I think she liked it, but I doubt it will fit. The pattern was based on a standard size 10 with a B cup and she is definitely not a B cup. I'm hoping to get her measurements soon so I can remake it with the Adventure Time fabric. I'd also like to make a long line version.

Drafting an underbust corset for Halloween.
Since we are on the drafting topic, I wanted to show the underbust corset that was drafted and built for Halloween. All the fabric was printed at Spoonflower as part of a group employee costume. We were a phantom circus and I was the sword swallower.
I really liked the way the corset turned out and would really like to make more. Next time I will use a metal busk for the center front. It was a huge pain in the ass to get in and out of this corset and the laces were hella long.

The corset fits me perfectly it just looks strange on my form because it doesn't have as large of hips like I do nor was it tied in the back. Please excuse the unfinished upper edge, this was an in process pic.

My buddy the bearded lady and me on Halloween
What are you doing this new year? What are your sewing goals?

Thursday, January 2, 2014


I made a pair of underpants last night!  The best part is that I drafted the pattern myself and they fit right off the bat. So excited to make more! Pictures to follow once a make a few more.

Resources to get you started:
the backed up version of Pattern School
Patternmaking for Fashion Design Book